Cork'd and Chateau Pontet-Canet [Additional Post]

Cork’d

            In reflecting on the Cork’d case, we have the benefit of hindsight; Cork’d shuttered in 2011, having failed to the achieve the necessary revenues it had desperately sought from wineries through a $999 fee. During class, we discussed the two extremes of wine criticism: on one end, the individualized, personality-driven reviews of writers like Robert Parker or Alder Yarrow; on the other, the simple averages of the general public on platforms like Vivino. Alder noted that media like Wine Spectator strive to strike a balance by creating composite ratings from qualified sommeliers and wine experts. However, the notable shortcomings of publications like these is their pay wall; only the most dedicated wine consumers have access. Wine writers of the early 2000s referred to Cork’d as a wine community for the “masses” or the “proletariat,” which suggests a comparison to platform Vivino, which enables anyone with internet access to provide a review. However, I think Cork’d had the opportunity to be more than Vivino, and had started to move in the right direction. The focus on onboarding wineries was not just essential to the company’s revenue model. It was a way to include true industry professionals in the conversation. Even though the appeal of Cork’d to wineries was a new channel for reaching customers, it was nevertheless a way to include the perspectives of trained, knowledgeable winemaking experts. Had Ronga succeeded in signing a substantial number of wineries, this could have been the launch of a powerful, broad-reaching wine community. The next step could have been to include critics in the conversation; with the opportunity to interact with wine drinkers and winemakers in the same forum, they might have been incentivized to forgo the paywall. With the “Cork’d Content” model, Ronga also came close to this pivotal shift. However, as with onboarding wineries, Cork’d failed to commit to the move. The focus on attracting free users detracted them from the more critical need for wine professionals to shape the conversation and educate the consumers. The demise of Cork’d is a shame – perhaps, with more intentional investment of time and resources, the platform could have captured what is clearly now a white space in the community of wine criticism.

Chateau Pontet-Canet

            After countless conversations with both sommeliers and winemakers who lament the outsized influence Robert Parker had on the wine industry, I find it difficult to recommend a course of action to Tesseron without considering these outlooks. As a result, I am loathe to encourage Chateau Pontet-Canet to shift their style from refined, earth-driven, and complex to ripe, high-alcohol, and oaky. A change it style might have garnered the coveted praise from Parker and thereby increased both demand and price point. However, given the centuries of history surrounding Chateau Pontet-Canet, this solution feels shortsighted. Though American drinkers certainly adapted their tastes to Parker’s, it is not certain that the reliable consumers who had purchased more traditional Bordeaux for years would acclimate to the new style. Furthermore, as we know now, the American wine regions – particularly Napa – adjusted quickly to the Parker palate and began filling shelves with such wines. American consumers seeking the sweeter, fruit-forward Cabernet could access domestic versions fairly easily. The risk of shifting to Parker’s style thus carried substantial risk – losing loyal consumers and potentially appellation typicity – with a deeply uncertain reward. Ruling out this option, I would recommend further exploring the division of first wine and second wine fruit. In an ideal world, Tesseron could push for an upgrade of classification that the quality of his wine merits; however, the success of this campaign is unlikely. Therefore, I would reevaluate whether more fruit could be considered first wine (increasing the volume sold of the higher price wine), or whether the second wine could be priced higher. In general, given Chateau Pontet-Canet’s history, I would recommend a course that continues to emphasize its track record of quality – and perhaps explores innovation in either pricing or vineyard management.