Food and Wine Pairing: Synergy or Waste of $?

Years ago, when my taste in wines was far less developed and I was a "bold red" devotee (when looking at a wine list, I always went straight for a Cab Sav or a Malbec), I was skeptical of the art of wine pairings. I would order red wine with fish becaues that was what I liked, ignoring conventional wisdom. But naturally, I knew the somms were the experts, not silly-old-me who refused to branch out beyond what her mother introduced her to.

Now, as my taste has evolved to appreciate and enjoy wines across the spectrum of tastes, I find myself excited by the mystique of wine pairings, but Alder's comment last class on how wine pairings are bogus got me thinking: is it really worth effectively doubling my total bill at a nice restaurant for wine pairings? I turned to the controversial science and art behind pairings to explore if the conventional wisdom is true.

What conventional wisdom tells you

Many still argue for the tricks we learned long ago: reds with meat, whites with fish, bitter or reds to cut fat, sweet wines with dessert, etc.

Wine Folly presents the following helpful pairing guide and method picture, which highlights the conventional wisdom (and goes into much more beautiful detail)!


Source: Wine Folly

The Wine Spectator even offers some more complex tips that build on each other, helping wine lovers advance from the basics.

What pundits in favor advocate

Many sommeliers argue for combining the rules and inspiration from the classics with additional nuances you detect in the food. And I understand why - else they might be out of a job. Somm Joseph Nase argues that, "being a good sommelier isn't about knowing every wine producer and vintage in the universe. It's about pairing wine with food -- specifically, with the cuisine of a particular chef in a particular restaurant." He emphasizes "synergy" in his pairings - that food and wine should enhance one another, and a pairing should be better than the sum of its parts. He does use conventional wisdom as a starting point.

The Michelin Guide is clearly bullish on the future of pairings. In July 2017, Michelin acquired a 40% stake in Robert Parker's The Wine Advocate, presumably to bolster its ability to offer prime pairings and winemaker dinners at its top rated restaurants, with an additional boost for its internationally acclaimed restaurants. 

What those against propose

However, Alder himself (on his Vinography blog) advocates again and again for throwing the worry about perfect pairings to the side. For Thanksgiving, "open up a bunch of bottles of many different kinds of wine and let people figure out what the heck they want to drink themselves."

Science of Cooking debunks a lot of the old adages we are likely familiar with, stating:

"The main objective to wine pairing with food is to enhance the dining experience. In many cultures winemaking and culinary experiences evolved over many years. Many pairings that are considered 'classics' today are the result of a region's cuisine and wine growing up and merging together in. In Italy one rarely dines without wine and a region's wine is known to be "food friendly" to match the areas cuisine. Many old wine adages such as 'White wine with fish; Red wine with meat' are no longer observed."

In particular, they argue with Alder that "the subjective nature of taste" - the fact that scientifically, our saliva releases different compounds that alter how we taste and experience food and wine - "makes it possible to drink most any kind of wine with any kind of food and have an enjoyable experience."

Lettie Teague, Wine Columnist at the Wall Street Journal, argues that wine pairings at elite restaurants are overpriced and ultimately disappointing. The constant presence of the sommelier, the lack of choice that the diner has, and the tendency to use obscure but cheap wines to hide the true price and make a higher margin are a few key reasons she cites. She even calls out that famed Allinea Group Wine Director Jill Zimorski notes that "Wine pairings are a great way to get ripped off." Most sommeliers she spoke to purposely order by the bottle - diverse wines that will pair with multiple dishes - to avoid what they know to be true.

For me, the jury is still out on if food and wine pairings are truly "scientific," and it's definitely debatable if they are worth the price tag. I'd say, if you're going for experience and to try something new (and you have the $ to burn), go for the pairing, but otherwise, sticking to what you like (especially for the average wine consumer) is probably fine.