Those in both the business and
pleasure of wine heaved a sigh of relief when President Trump appeared to step
back from proposed 100% tariffs on specialty French products including wine. Outrage
had been pouring from every corner of the industry. Predictably, importers
spoke up: much of their portfolio comes from France, and the collapse of American
demand due to tariff prices would completely upend their business model.
American wineries cannot simply replace the French volume; they cannot produce
an exponentially larger amount of wine at a moment’s notice. Importers would
have to spend precious time and money sourcing new wines, which still may not
even satisfy retailer and consumer wants. Perhaps to Mr. Trump’s surprise,
American winemakers also expressed alarm: because of the three-tier system,
their financial health and economic viability is closely tied to that of the
distributors who place their products in restaurants, stores, and consumers’
hands. Financial distress for the distributors translates to pain and frustration
for American wineries. Restaurants, too, began to panic: the industry is
notorious for its low margins, often only in the black due to alcohol sales.
Increased cost of wine would at the very least require cost-cutting elsewhere –
sacrificing quality of food, and likely laying off hardworking American
employees – but would very probably also lead to closures. In the words of
Jason Haas, General Manager of Sonoma County’s Tablas Creek Vineyards, “the
disruption of 100% tariffs on wines from the world’s oldest wine regions would
have cascading impacts that would reach deep into a whole network of American
businesses, investors, and consumers.”
So, yes, the industry has – for now –
dodged a near-disastrous policy. But in celebrating this victory, some overlook
the 25% tariff on select EU goods (including wine, cheese, whiskey, and olive
oil) that went into place in October of 2019 and still exists. Importers are suffering
from these tariffs: many were forced to absorb the added cost, trimming their
margins further in a way that benefits only the government and those using importers’
livelihoods as political capital.
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